Thursday, February 14, 2019

Time warp - 1863 - Delicates


I have been so inspired lately from reading the testimonials of others' trials and tribulations of historical costuming that I feel a duty, and a touch of pride as well, towards my most recent efforts.

Firstly, I'm horribly practical and though there are many laboriously perfected patterns available from online shops as well as short cuts and modern time savers which I do sometimes give into, this being practical (and frugal to boot) has really dug under my skin this time. I have begun production on a series of garments for when Husband and I are state-side for Civil War re-enactments. The big anniversary is coming up and I think we may need to extend our wardrobe just in case ;-)

I have made a conscious decision to use only articles from magazines and the patent office for patterns, advice and instruction for creating these. I have great misgivings about my ability to follow anyones directions: modern, diagrammed or explained at the level of a 5-year-old.

Hopeless. Truly.

That is why I absolutely love this method. It's more of a suggestion, an artistic explanation of how to make clothing. Like impressionist painting. I dig that. The spirit of individual creativity, accident and misunderstanding rolled into such an enticing and charming presentation.

Here is my first attempt. Starting with a basics.

"Delicates" for the right support and silhouette




Support is fairly important and if you have ever tried enacting an impression from any period which requires a corset you will know, and probably still feel to this day, the discomfort of getting it wrong. I have an earlier model reproduction from 1860 but the description of comfort was irresistible. It does bear merit though my intention was to make a cotton "prototype" before using the final fabric (white linen). I ended up finishing the whole thing and decided it was good enough to use for now.

I highly recommend this model for women with larger hip/bust to waist ratio.  I used a bit of extra padding in the hips to soften the stress.  I am often irritated by the end of the corset digging into me when I bend or twist at the waist frequently so this helped.